Finding out your dishwasher isn’t working isn’t a great way to begin your day, particularly if you have to deal with the expense of phoning a professional and staying home to meet them just to diagnose the problem.
Luckily it’s often easy to pinpoint and often fix a number of machine problems alone without needing to call for dishwasher repair, particularly if you happen to are able to find a multimeter.
You could realize you are able to fix the fault quite easily yourself, especially if you are mechanically minded, and if you can’t at least you will be better placed to describe the issue when you do call an engineer.
In advance of looking for a replacement machine there are a number of common issues you can identify fairly easily.
Safety Warning: Always make sure your dishwasher is unplugged before testing or replacing any electrical components.
Before you begin checking your machine for issues make sure that your dishwasher hasn’t been inadvertently switched off, plus that there are no tripped switches in the circuit breaker.
At this point you can also check that the child lock isn’t on as well as try resetting your machine.
You will often require the user manual to do this due to the fact that machines are all different but the child lock tends to be fairly simple to put on accidentally. Similarly, the machine might have lights yet will not run, in this case the answer may be as easy as resetting the cycle.
When you have ruled out these issues you can start the real troubleshooting.
To examine these components you will need a multimeter, or VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) to test the resistance and check the parts are working as they are meant to.
The first thing to test is the door latches plus door latch switches. Your machine is not designed to start if the door latches are broken for understandable reasons. You wouldn’t want to be able to inadvertently begin the machine with the door open.
A broken switch will stop your dishwasher from starting and running. You can test the switch with a multimeter. The switch is generally located behind the front door panel or control panel.
Make sure you have disconnected power to the machine prior to removing the door panel and testing for continuity to prevent yourself from getting an electric shock.
If you discover the latches or switches are faulty you will need to replace them.
If your latch mechanism is working as it should the next component to test is the timer or electronic control.
This is the component that sends electricity to all the different parts the machine requires to run such as the pumps, as well as the water inlet valve.
If your machine has an electric control as opposed to a mechanical timer then it might have to be checked while live, this can be dangerous and should only be done by someone who is professionally trained.
This is the part of your machine that selects the cycle , it’s style and location will vary depending on the make or model of your machine. A faulty selector switch or even one that has not been fully depressed might result in the machine not to turn on.
You can usually see if the buttons are depressing fully, or you could be required to unplug the machine and have a look at the control panel to test the connections for continuity with the help of a multimeter.
The motor relay is an alternative part that could result in your machine not running, and this may be the issue if you have checked the control panel and thus have ascertained that there should be power running to the motor.
To investigate this you need to locate the motor and locate the relay that should be mounted next to it. This can then be removed as well as checked with the help of a multimeter and it might have to be replaced.
When you have tested the above issues but still haven’t found the fault the next part to test is the thermal fuse. This will only be found on some models and is designed to protect the control board.
If it will need to be replaced in order for the control board to get power.
The final component you should be able to test that might stop your machine from working is the drive motor. This is the component that circulates the water to wash your dishes.
When you have checked the other electrical components and still aren’t getting anywhere this may be the issue especially if your machine has previously been making a loud humming noise.
You should be able to access the motor by taking off the lower access panel. Test it with the help of a multimeter then replace if broken.
If you don’t have a multimeter and are not confident in taking panels off your machine and testing the parts then you will need to call an engineer sooner rather than later.
If you are happy to perform the above checks then you may well be able to resolve the fault without assistance. But if you are unsure it’s always better to call in the professionals.
Plus have a look at your warranty plus your home cover as appliance repairs could be included and so the costs might not be as high as you think.
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